Mar 31, 2007 9:32 am US/Central
Old World Splendor Is Abundant At Sabatino's
4441 W. Irving Park Rd.
(773) 283-8331
CHICAGO (CBS) ―
An old standby on the Northwest Side remains a standout when dining Italian.
CBS 2's Vince Gerasole discovered why, while sharing a Table for 2 with one of the regulars at Sabatino's.
The cuisine is served up in candlelit splendor, with a strolling violinist and guitarist playing Italian folk songs alongside traditional ravioli in a meaty Bolognese sauce that just might have a hint of cinnamon.
Sabatino's is very much Old World, but these days, that is refreshingly new.
Saltinbocca means jump in your mouth, which the food at Sabatino's certainly does. Vince shared a nicely-executed plate of delicately sautéed veal, topped with punchy Italian prosciutto, with Linda Petricca, known by her friends as their resident restaurant critic.
"I think it's because every time I start to eat, or I go to eat something, I always describe it with real gusto," Petricca said.
Sabatino's is famous for their eggplant. They manage to keep a hearty layered eggplant parmesan refreshingly light.
Linda described the taste, calling it "sweet, not bitter, because sometimes eggplant can be bitter. But I've never found that to be here."
She enumerated some of her other favorite specialties there.
"My favorite appetizer here is the baked clams – the best I've eaten anywhere," Petricca said. She added that the clams have "the perfect Dijon butter – not too dry, not to creamy."
For 30 years, Enzo Pagni and his brother have served up not only traditional pastas, but Epicurean plates as well, like thin slices of wine-soaked and cured Bresaola beef over arugula and parmesan cheese.
Sabatino's four private dining booths have also stolen the hearts of many diners.
"We had a gentleman here last night married 19 years," Pagni said. "He still remembers the booth where he kneeled down to propose to her."
Overall, we found Sabatino's Italian fare worthy of a big night, with an atmosphere that's old style in a good way. Most entrees are priced in the $15 range, including the violin and guitar serenade on selected evenings.
Sabatino's is located at 4441 W. Irving Park Rd., and there is plenty of parking is available in the adjacent lot.
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